SEA Britain
All aboard with Margaret Hides for a voyage through Naval glory in Portsmouth.
This year, the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar, puts Portsmouth at the hub of a memorable British pageant of the sea. From now until the final weekend of Oct 21 – Trafalgar Day – there will a continuous festival of carnivals, exhibitions, musical events, fireworks, storytellers and the razzmatazz of welcoming returning Global Challenge round-the-world yachts. Emphasis is on pleasure and enjoyable participation for all the family, not leaving out disabled visitors, as we discover.
A rare highlight will be the spectacle taking place in the Solent at Spithead when the Lord High Admiral (the Queen) accompanied by the Duke of Edinburgh takes Review of the Fleet on June 28th, 30 years since the last Spithead Review.
The waters will be filled with ships from over 40 of the world's navies and elegantly beautiful tall ships as well as warships and thousands of other craft including yachts, fishing vessels and family holiday boats. At dusk (with the best viewing spots from Southsea seafront) the re-enactment of a Napoleonic sea battle is promised to “assail the senses” in the pyrotechnics of a spectacular Son et Lumiere.
On the following day an impressive Drumhead Service on Southsea Common plays a part in tribute to the many who fell in conflict at sea. An innovative Veterans Centre will be here,
helping old comrades to trace each other. A great place for a holiday break is the city's newest hotspot Gunwharf Quays, vibrant with its modern shops and designer outlets, waterside promenades, restaurants, pubs, ferry departure points, luxury apartments and the only hotel – the Express Holiday Inn – ideally placed. Gunwharf Quay has it all within an eight-minute level, comfortable, walk to the adjoining Historic Dockyard.
The Historic Dockyard is the permanent home of Nelson's flagship, Victory, and of Warrior, the first iron-clad ship, as well as legendary Mary Rose, favourite ship of Henry Vlll.
They are close to each other and offer wheelchair access.
On the massive gundeck of Victory a video corner is set aside for visitors who can not manage stairs and companionways. Sitting here you share the commentary of harsh Navy life 200 years ago with glimpses into plush quarters where Nelson and his captain, Hardy, dined, worked and
slept; elegant accommodation with Georgian furniture and fine wood panel walls. But, in battle, everything was speedily transformed to a bloody operating theatre with the walls being
swung up and suspended from ceilings giving greater space for tables made ready for the ship's surgeon . 
A stair lift has been installed on Warrior. The Mary Rose museum shares its poignant secrets from the deep. One of the original divers told me of a moving moment in finding a simple,
long-handled wooden shovel. He picked it up, he said, realising that the last hands to have touched this was a sailor 500 years ago.
The museum is a moving testimony to daily life in Tudor times: pewter plates and tankards for the officers, wooden tableware for the men with lots of bowls and drinking vessels carved with a personal mark identifying their owners. There are remains of leather bindings from books and perfectly preserved bows for the arrows used by soldiers who were also on board. But representing the greatest number of finds is a collection of individual nit combs.
Remains of a dog were found behind a doorway – but no sign of any traditional ship's cat! Tudor ships had a professional rat catcher aboard. Sometimes crew who were ill were served cooked rodent as a source of rare and precious supplementary meat protein.
There is a myth that the Mary Rose, one of the earliest warships built to carry heavy guns, sank on her maiden trip to sea. But she was a favourite ship of the King and had been in service for many years before capsizing in front of everyone ashore. Henry VIII and spectators were there to wish the vessel God Speed when it left Portsmouth to intercept a French invasion fleet. Invaders from French ships had already been landed on the Isle of Wight .
Different theories are advanced as to why Mary Rose suddenly went down within sight of land. Over 500 crew perished leaving fewer than than 40 survivors. Seeing it all from shore the King wept: “Oh my gentlemen, my gallant men.” Fast-forward now to the contemporary Royal Navy: Action Stations, on the Historic Dockyard, is the place where children often outclass the adults. For computer buffs this is a great place to test their games skills in swift interactive challenges
sorting out realities involved in life aboard one of our most modern warships (I failed miserably in my computer generated tests to become captain). Perhaps the final thrill for youngsters is climbing into a simulator pod and taking off in a Harrier jump-jet as it rockets skyward from a ship's deck.
I have another favourite. Beyond the Historic Dockyard there is the informative D Day Museum, on Clarence Esplanade. Tales, within the memory of many of us, are told graphically in exhibits which include the marvellous 34- panel Overlord Embroidery echoing the skilful artistry of the
Bayeaux Tapestry.
Trafalgar Day will see nationwide commemorations.
Beacons are to be lit round the country and in the Channel Islands. Sea cadets will take centre stage at gatherings in London's Trafalgar Square and a special service is to be held at St Paul's Cathedral, the burial place of Horatio Nelson.
Compass Points
EXPRESS HOLIDAY INN: Gunwharf Quays The Plaza, Portsmouth PO1 3FD. Disabled access accommodation. (Tel: 0800 434040) www.hiexpress-portsmouth.com
SHOPMOBILITY, Gunwharf Quay Centre opposite Marks & Spencer. Manual wheelchairs available, advised booking for electric scooters Tel: 023 9283 6700
GUIDE FOR VISITORS WITH DISABILITIES. Free from Portsmouth City Council, Guildhall Square, Portsmouth PO1 2BG
SELF CATERING: Sandy Balls Holiday Centre, Godshill, Fordingbridge, Hants SP6 2JZ. 45
minutes drive from Portsmouth with caravan and tent sites; family timber lodges (some with wheelchair access); snug single bedroom hideaways for couples; welcome for the family dog
Tel: 01425 653042 www. sandy-balls.co.uk
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